The Jacob Cut is the signature cut for the diamonds and gems that appear on all Jacob & Co. Astronomia timepieces. It always marks its presence on one of the arms of the Astronomia vertical movement and at times it graces other parts of its extra-large watches. It is a distinctive work of innovation, creativity and execution.
The spherical, 288-faceted gem is a unique cut exclusive to Jacob & Co.
The Jacob Cut diamond starts out as a much larger rough, up to twice the size as the finished product. Quality is important, with clarity being the most prized of the four Cs of diamond quality. If there is any sign of an inclusion the diamond must be scrapped.
The rough diamond is first cut by machine into a spherical shape, near the size of the final diamond. Then the master gem cutter does his work, shaping the stone by hand and cutting each of the 288 facets while maintaining its shape. The danger is that the stone will become oblong, losing its round shape. To be used in the Astronomia Collection, the Jacob-Cut diamond must be completely round and weigh exactly as much as the other three satellites (time display, triple-axis tourbillon, magnesium globe) to maintain stability of the movement. One-carat is the standard size, but other sizes have been specified depending on how it is used within the movement.
Another challenge is ensuring the precise dimensions of the facets. If the gem cutter puts slightly too much pressure on the stone while adding the facets, too much of the diamond will be cut away, and the sphere will be too small to use. The cutting process takes at least two weeks of dedicated, painstaking work.
The Jacob Cut is most recognizable on the Astronomia watch as a diamond that extends from one of the four arms of the vertical Astronomia movement. It rotates at different rates various depending on the other elements and the theme of the watch. However, the cut has been applied on colored gemstones and placed in the dial in other ways.