Diamond Watches: The Pinnacle of High Jewelry Watchmaking

Few creations capture the essence of luxury and craftsmanship like diamond watches. Their light is unique, their aura unmatched, and their enduring legacy secures their place as timeless treasures. Whether designed for women or men, a diamond watch is a statement of affluence, sophistication, and exceptional taste. Yet, not all diamond watches are created equal—they exist within a refined hierarchy defined by their quality, artistry, and worth.

The Art of Diamond Setting: A Gradual Masterpiece

The first measure of a diamond watch’s prestige is its carat weight, which is intricately tied to the parts of the watch adorned with diamonds. The journey begins with the bezel—the outer frame encircling the dial. As the ideal starting point for a diamond setting, it offers an elegant showcase of brilliance. The next level of craftsmanship introduces diamonds to the hour markers, adding luminous accents that enhance the watch’s inner glow.

True mastery emerges when the entire dial is set with diamonds, marking the timepiece as a high jewelry creation. Setting the watch case, the next step represents the pinnacle of complexity. Though cases may appear simple—round, square, or rectangular—they are, in reality, three-dimensional objects with intricate curves. Achieving a flawless diamond setting on such a surface demands unparalleled craftsmanship. With each additional element adorned with diamonds, from the bezel to the case, the carat weight and overall opulence increase.

The Quality of Diamonds: A Standard of Perfection

Beyond carat weight, the quality of the diamonds themselves defines the excellence of a luxury diamond watch. Unlike gemstones set in rings or earrings, which receive light from multiple angles, diamonds on watches depend solely on light from above. This unique requirement demands superior stones with exceptional whiteness and clarity. Low levels of inclusions are critical, as even minor imperfections can weaken the diamond’s crystalline structure, making the setting process more challenging.

Another hallmark of quality is the size of the diamonds. Smaller gems are easier and more economical to set, but larger diamonds carry a rare and unparalleled grandeur. Jacob & Co. is renowned for its use of some of the largest, clearest, and most precisely cut diamonds in the world. The brand’s signature invisible setting technique—seamlessly aligning gems without visible metal—requires the finest diamonds and the highest levels of craftsmanship.

Full-Set Timepieces: The Ultimate Expression of Luxury

When every quality factor converges, one type of diamond watch emerges as the pinnacle of artistry: the full-set timepiece. These creations are a hallmark of Jacob & Co., celebrated for their intricate settings and breathtaking brilliance. Full-set watches feature cases and dials adorned with exceptionally large baguette-cut diamonds arranged in invisible settings. In some collections, such as Brilliant Baguette, even the bracelet is fully encrusted, creating a seamless flow of light across the entire watch. For the ultimate innovation, select models integrate diamonds into the mechanical movements, redefining the boundaries of horological artistry.

The Billionaire Collection: A Legacy of Light

At the summit of diamond watchmaking lies Jacob & Co.’s Billionaire collection, the undisputed champion of high jewelry timepieces since its debut in 2016. These watches are a radiant celebration of opulence, featuring hundreds of carats of emerald-cut or Ashoka-cut diamonds of the highest clarity and whiteness. Every detail, from the bezel to the skeletonized tourbillon movement, the case, and the bracelet, is meticulously set, creating a masterpiece that seems sculpted from pure light.

The Billionaire collection is not merely a watch; it is a declaration of artistry, luxury, and vision. Its bold designs, intricate settings, and unparalleled brilliance place it in a class of its own, where timekeeping meets the eternal allure of diamonds.