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Jean Bugatti White Gold

a silver watch with a black face

STORY

After releasing such superlative watches as the Chiron or Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti, all of which relate to the contemporary history of Bugatti, Jacob & Co. decided to explore another facet of the hypercar brand's legacy. The white gold limited edition of the Jean Bugatti celebrates an extraordinary innovator and his avant-garde and artistic automotive interpretations.

Jean Bugatti was the eldest son of founder Ettore Bugatti. Born in 1909, the same year when Ettore set up his new company in Molsheim, Alsace, in north-eastern France. As a child, Jean loved to watch his father and the draftsmen designing and developing. He often secretly ran through the production facilities watching the drawings come to life. Young, curious and experimental as he was, the post-war French "Années Folles" (crazy years) had a huge influence on him. He would visit his grandfather Carlo, who was a member of the Académie des Beaux Arts in Paris since 1875, as often as he could in the French capital. Carlo Bugatti loved mixing materials, cultures and styles in his furniture and decorative artefacts, inspiring Jean to do the same in his automotive designs.

This led to such masterpieces as the duotone Type 50 series, the Type 41 Royale with the longest wheelbase ever and the Type 57SC Atlantic, the most expensive collector's car in the world. The Atlantic had an extremely long bonnet and an oval-shaped rear end extending almost to the ground, from which six thin tailpipes protrude. The outstanding design feature was the Atlantic's raised seam which ran vertically from the hinge in the split bonnet to the tail. Proportions unknown in the automotive world at the time.

Stephan Winkelmann et al. sitting at a table looking at papers

ABOUT THE PARTNERSHIP

In 2019, Bugatti and Jacob & Co. signed a multi-year partnership to create unique, never-before-seen timepieces. These watches are true to the spirit of both companies, while taking watchmaking to impossible heights.

To inaugurate this partnership led by performance, two timepieces were created. These watches, based on the Twin Turbo Furious and the Epic X Chrono, were directly inspired by the unique design and spirit of Bugatti hypercars.

In 2020, Jacob & Co. and Bugatti introduced new watches in the Twin Turbo Furious collection, and the Bugatti Chiron, a completely new line. In 2022, this partnership adds a historic, classic and still high performance facet with the Jean Bugatti.

a silver watch with a black face

DESIGN OUTLIER

The Jean Bugatti presents itself in the guise of an elegant, refined timepiece with a pronounced retro feel. This is the latest offspring of the fruitful partnership between Jacob & Co. and Bugatti Automobiles.

Compared to the rest of the Jacob & Co. timepiece collection, the Jean Bugatti stands out. It feels classical and to some, even tame. It is the result of the deep relationship between Bugatti Automobiles and Jacob & Co., which is based on an horological interpretation of automotive design. So The Jean Bugatti feels like the dashboard of a collectible Bugatti car. And the openings at the bottom of the dial feel like the grille and headlights of a 1930's coupé from Molsheim.

a silver and black wrist watch

SINGULAR LAYOUT

Jean Bugatti's sense of automotive design was definitely outside the box. So is the appearance of the eponymous timepiece. It may look classical, but as was to be expected from Jacob & Co., it really isn't. With two large openings at 5 and 7 o'clock under discs of smoked sapphire, with hands pointing in a direction that makes no apparent sense, with a vertical large opening at 6 o'clock, the Jean Bugatti is puzzling, misleading perhaps.

Pointing inwards, located on the outside rim of the dial, two short, red hands tell the hours and minutes. The pair of short, blued hands anchored in the middle of the dial are the chronograph hands. The first, longer one stands for the chronograph's second's units. The other is in charge of the chronograph's second's tens. The two openings on the dial, at 5 and 7 o'clock, harbour a pair of one-minute flying tourbillons.

close up of a watch

DOUBLE RETROGRADE AND DIGITAL CHRONOGRAPH

The Jean Bugatti features a chronograph whose layout, functions and performance is undoubtedly unique. Its chronograph seconds are double retrograde. The chronograph's minutes are digital and jumping. Both rely on a separate, high frequency, 4 Hz regulating organ with a dedicated barrel. Its action is coordinated by a column wheel with horizontal clutch.

It relies on hands located at the centre of the watch. When the start/stop pusher is activated, the first hand starts moving from 0 to 10. As it reaches 10, it jumps backwards to 0 and starts its course anew. Meanwhile, the other hand has jumped forward, from 00 to 01. The sequence repeats itself as long as the chronograph is in operation. After 59 seconds, the shorter hand reaches 60 and jumps backwards to 00. At that point, in the oval medallion at 6 o'clock, a disc with gilded numerals has instantly jumped from 00 to 01.

Furthermore, when the chronograph is stopped and reset, the seconds' hands don't jump backwards instantly. They slowly continue their course to their final position, and only then can they make their final retrograde leap. This is one of many unique features of the Jean Bugatti.

a close-up of a compass

TWIN FLYING TOURBILLONS

The two openings on the Jean Bugatti dial harbour a pair of one-minute tourbillons. Lying underneath a smoked sapphire crystal, they integrate a design feature that further enhances the Bugatti-esque nature of this timepiece. A Jacob & Co. tourbillon cage can be modified in a host of ways to convey a design message. In this case, it's been given the shape of the Bugatti EB logo. This component is manufactured in perfectly polished steel.

Since they're held only by their underpinnings, these two rotating systems are flying tourbillons. Their rotation period is a classical one minute, and the frequency of the balance wheel they harbour is 4 Hz.

a close up of a car wheel

MOVEMENT

Calibre JCFM09 has been developed exclusively for the Jean Bugatti. It's made of a total of 458 components. This unusually high number is a direct consequence of the movement's advanced complications and dual structure. On the same mainplate, two different and interconnected systems co-exist. One is the time-keeping part, with a dedicated barrel, gear train, twin tourbillons, all of which drive the peripheral time display.

The other is the chronograph part. It possesses its own barrel, linked to a dedicated regulating organ, oscillating at 36'000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz. When engaged by the pushers, the balance wheel immediately reaches its optimal amplitude and frequency to drive the chronograph hands with maximum precision.

The graphic impression left by calibre JCFM09 is impressive. The openworked components are highly-polished and bevelled. They stand out against the backdrop of a circular-grained, all blacked-out mainplate. A forest of springs, levers, clutches and impressive mirror-polished bridges create a dense technical environment. In that respect, as in many others, the Jean Bugatti is a timepiece to behold.

a silver analog watch

ORNATE DIAL

The Jean Bugatti houses a dial that's unheard of in Jacob & Co.'s 20 years of watchmaking. A velvety off-white base with sunray finish is fitted with a pair of white gold-plated appliques. They define a 225° sector along which the chronograph hands run. They're complemented by applied, arabic numerals acting as their scale. The outermost one runs from 0 to 10 and the other, inside scale runs from 00 to 60.

The frontier between the dial surface and the three openings between 5 and 7 o'clock is marked by another white gold-plated applique. It defines the areas where the tourbillons and the digital chronograph minutes are located.

A white-gold plated and lacquered applique sits just underneath the chronograph hands, reminding of the Bugatti essence of the Jean Bugatti.

a close-up of a watch

CASE AND CRYSTAL

The Jean Bugatti is crafted out of 18K white gold. The precious metal is polished throughout and shaped in a round case, with a rounded bezel, short rounded and elaborate lugs for optimal wearing ease.

The Jean Bugatti case measures 46 mm in diameter and 16 mm in thickness. Its sapphire crystal is shaped like a dome, whose curves are an extension of the bezel's and case's. The caseback is fitted with a transparent sapphire crystal and offers an unobstructed view on calibre JCFM09.

a watch on a wrist

Technical Specifications

ITEM NUMBER: BU100.30.AA.AA.A

Movement:

Caliber: Manufacture Jacob&Co. Manual Winding JCFM09
Size: 41.55mm
Height: 8.92mm
Components: 458
Components per tourbillon: 41 Tourbillon
Weight: 0.547g
Jewels: 92
Power Reserve: 48 Hours
Power Reserve Chronograph: 2 Hours
Frequency: 28'800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Frequency of Chronograph: 36'000 vib/h (5 Hz)
Functions:
1. Hours, Minutes
2. Retrograde Chronograph
3. Twin Tourbillons with EB logo

Case:

Diameter: 46mm
Height: 16mm
Material: 18K White Gold
Crystal: Anti-Reflective Sapphire Crystal
Case back: 18K White Gold; Open case back
Crown and Pushers: 18K White Gold
Water resistance: 30m (3atm)

Dial & Hands:

Velvety Off-White Dial
- The dial indicating the hours surrounds the Chronograph counter dial;
- Openworked Red Hour and Minute Hands are located peripherally to the dial;
-The Seconds are indicated via 2 Hands, the Chronograph Units Hand and the Chronograph Tens Hand;
- The Minutes are displayed via the Window located at 6 o'clock by the Minute counter disc.
- Smoked Sapphire glass above the tourbillons.

Strap & Clasp:

Strap: Alligator
Clasp: 18K White Gold Deployment Clasp.

Limited Edition:

57 pieces

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If you have any questions, queries or comments, please feel free to get in touch and our team will be delighted to help you.

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Flagship Boutique
/ Corporate Office

48 East 57 Street
New York, NY 10022
+1 (212) 719-5887
Jacob & Co

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