Colored Gemstones: The Ultimate Signature of High Jewelry and High Watchmaking

While white diamonds stand as the undisputed kings of gemstones, colored gems introduce a vibrant, imaginative language all their own. They transform the art of watchmaking into a rich tapestry of creativity, drawing from an extensive gemstone chart and crafting a kaleidoscope of precious hues. Like the art of rhyming and flow, the use of colored gemstones requires expertise, energy, and a daring spirit.

A Revolution in Color: The Rise of Multicolored Sapphires

The art of using colored gemstones in watchmaking was forever transformed by a groundbreaking phenomenon: the emergence of multicolored sapphires. Once known exclusively for their iconic blue hue, sapphires now span a dazzling spectrum of colors, including green, yellow, pink, orange, purple, and gray. The only color absent is red—because rubies are red sapphires by nature.

Blue sapphires remain the legacy icons of their family, but icy blue sapphires have emerged as a compelling counterpart, offering a cool, emotive brilliance. Orange sapphires transition from light apricot to deep amber, while yellow sapphires range from pale gold to vibrant lemon. Green sapphires, while unable to achieve the depth of emeralds, provide a world of creative possibilities that have made them indispensable in modern watch design.

Tsavorites and Emeralds: Green's Evolving Role in Watchmaking

Emeralds, historically revered as symbols of opulence, present unique challenges when incorporated into watches. Their natural brittleness and sensitivity make them ill-suited for the rigorous demands of bezels and cases. Even the innovative invisible setting cannot fully shield them from potential vulnerabilities. To overcome this, Jacob & Co. has embraced tsavorites, a rare type of garnet with a luminous, deep green hue. These gems offer a durable and vibrant alternative, embodying both beauty and reliability—a perfect match for the precision of haute horology as testified by the Brilliant Baguette collection.

The Allure of Rubies and Yellow Diamonds

Rubies, with their iconic red hue, hold a special place as the most prized colored gemstone. Red remains a uniquely symbolic color and the specific signature of the ruby. A watch with rubies is of the highest rarity, as they are so prized they're generally destined for high jewelry use.

The combination of high watchmaking and high jewelry crafts will therefore view them as uniquely valuable, both as a means of prestige and creativity. If they didn't undergo any color-altering heat treatment, they become the cream of the crop of today's gems. The very existence of such a timepiece as Billionaire III Rubies, which is entirely set with 147 carats of all-natural, non-heated rubies defies all expectations.

If white diamond is the undisputed reigning king, then yellow diamonds are the emperors of jewel colors. Of all types of precious stones used in watchmaking, it is the most demanding in quality and exclusive. Its color range is wide and only the most vivid hues are really prized. Sitting precisely between a too light, diluted yellow and a too brown hue, only the Fancy Yellow and Fancy Intense Yellow are worthy of being included in Jacob & Co.'s creations, such as Billionaire Timeless Treasure.

Jacob & Co.: Redefining Color in Watchmaking

Jacob & Co. has cultivated an intimate and uniquely creative rapport with different colored gemstones. Color is a profound means of creativity and an integral part of the Jacob & Co. design language, especially in watchmaking. The brand doesn’t just use every gem in the rainbow—it transforms them into artistic masterpieces.

On top of using every single colored gem available, the brand also plays with different multicolored arrangements, such as the rare and elusive camo setting, inspired by streetwear and the art of crossing design borders. The Arlequino setting is a tribute to Italy's legacy theater character and his colorful attire. And the Rainbow setting, which has proven fantastically sought-after in gem-set watches, has become a specialty of Jacob & Co. All three demand the procurement of perfectly matching sets of colorful precious gemstones, offering a precisely mastered tone progression, a sure sign of extremely fine expertise.

By combining the artistry of high jewelry with the technical mastery of haute horology, Jacob & Co. continues to redefine what’s possible in watchmaking. The use of colored gemstones is not merely an embellishment but a cornerstone of the brand’s creative vision, ensuring each timepiece tells a story as rich and vivid as the gems it bears.